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Now In: Gate School 101
Do It Yourself!
When choosing a swing or a slide gate. We recommend swing gates when possible because they are safer, quieter, and more cost effective. Access control is your next decision. Did you prefer to enter with remote transmitters (or clickers), or to enter by punching a code into a keypad? There is even the option of telephone entry with or without a camera. Or a free exit device which can be a probe buried in a thin layer of dirt running parallel to the driveway on the inside of the property that registers cars and opens the gate automatically when cars are leaving. Or it can be a preformed loop placed underground (preferably before the driveway is paved), but saw-cutting into existing asphalt is also possible), on the driveway inside of the property that registers cars driving over it on the way out and opens the gate automatically. With that information we offer you our quick how to guide on Gate Automation. Gate School Video 101: Basic Swing Gate Installation
Although your swing gate operator may be different then the one in our video.
Basic installation rules still apply. Our video will give you proffesional step by step instruction
for the Do it Yourself Enthusiast !
You will need Windows Media Player To View The Video
If you don't have it, click the Windows Media Icon to
install it to your computer.
 1. Introduction
3. Materials
8. Programming
Gate Automation 101- 1: Getting Started
OK you've been thinking about this for some time. Now you're ready to take the plunge and install your own Automatic Gate Operator. Then it hits you; you haven't a clue as too where to start. Well have no fear, as an old installer used to say "It’s not Rocket Science". But it does require some planning and a bit more DIY skills than hanging a picture. Most operators will require some amount of welding. They all require electrical connections, if you have any fears or questions as to your electrical skills, CALL A CONTRACTOR! It is better to be safe than sorry. The following is a guide to help you start off on the right foot and avoid some of the pitfalls. Step 1 Lets answer some questions about what kind of gate you’re going to automate. We'll make this into a kind of checklist that you can use later when you order the equipment as well as when you go to the local building department for your permits. Is the gate old 0 or new 0? If it's an old gate is the hardware in good condition? Does it move freely without binding of hanging up? This is very important! Is it Wood 0 or Metal 0? Generally wood gates need to be framed with metal or reinforced in some way to make them compatible with automation. Does it slide 0 or swing 0? How big, (or small) is it? ____________Wide by ___________High Is it solid 0 or does it have pickets 0 or a Mesh 0 covering? How many times a day will it open and close? _________ Is the opening level from side to side? Y or N? If No, how much is the difference __________ inches. Is the driveway level Y or N? If no, does it rise or fall as you enter and how much ________. Is the stacking area, (where the gate goes when it's open) level? Y or N? What is the driveway made of? Concrete, Asphalt, Gravel, Paving Stones, Dirt or Other __________. Is the necessary electrical power at the gate location? Y or N? If Not, How far away is it? ____________Ft. How will you open/close the gate? Radio transmitters 0, Keypad 0, Card Reader 0, other__________ 0. Will you need a Visitor Entry System? Y or N This could be an Intercom or Telephone based system for visitors to call from the gate to the house. Do you have a secondary man-gate for pedestrian access so they do not have to walk through the vehicle gate? (A man-gate is required by UL325) Y or N Will you need a special EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS DEVICE? Y or N? You need to check with your local Fire Marshal or Building Department, many areas require them for Fire, Police, and Ambulance access in an emergency. There are some more items we could add but they are more specific to accessories and we can look at them later. Step 2 OK now we know what kind of gate we have, its condition and the environment into which it will be installed and used. You've talked with one of our sales consultants and have your operator and equipment on order. Now you need to put this information in the form of a simple layout drawing and go down to the local building department for your permits. You can call the building department in advance to get exact specifics for your area on what information needs to be shown. At a minimum your drawing will need to show the property lines, the driveway located on the property, and the gate location marked with the distance from the front property line to the gate, (see "A"), and from the gate to the power panel, (see "B"). You may also have to show any fence lines and the electrical runs if they are going to be new. Sample Below.  Gate Automation 101- 2: From the Ground up Step 1 Are you ready to start your installation? The first thing is to "READ THE INSTALLATION MANUAL" that came with your equipment. I know you're excited to get started, but the manual contains a lot of important information.
Now let’s go out to the gate and start laying out the site. You will need to take a few things with you, 1. A tape measure. 2. Something to mark the ground with, chalk or a lumber crayon if the area is paved or a can of marking paint if its dirt or grass. 3. A string or chalk-line if you will be marking out for trenching or loops. We will assume that the gate is already installed. First, determine the operator pad location. Check your manual; it will have a layout drawing that shows the size and shape of the pad and its placement from fixed reference points on the gate. The drawing will refer to a Right Hand or Left Hand layout. This is determined by standing in the drive way and looking out from the property onto the street. If the gate opens to your right it is a Right Hand layout. If it opens to your left it's a Left Hand layout. Check the manual to find the reference point indicated on the drawing. Now find that point on your gate. For swing gates it is generally the center of the hinge point of the gate. Your measurements will be taken from this point either along the fence line or along the curb line. For a slide gate it is generally the centerline of the gate and the curb line.   Now mark out the pad as shown in the manual. Keep the sides of the pad square and parallel to the gate. Also check the manual for the location of the electrical conduits that will come up inside the pad. Make sure that you will have about 2 inches of the conduit extending out of the finished concrete. Trim the conduits if necessary, being careful not to damage the insulation on the conductors. If you live in an area that has frequent Lightening Storms you may want to install a Grounding Rod. This is a steel rod with a copper coating that is 8 to 10-ft long. It is driven into the ground through the concrete pad next to the electrical conduit. Using a Grounding Clamp, you connect a minimum #12 AWG bare copper wire to the rod and to the base of the operator frame or to a grounding bushing on the conduits.
If the pad is located on an existing concrete slab you can install the operator in the area marked out, without building a new pad. If not, then it will be necessary to dig and pour a new concrete pad. Again check the manual, there will be a pad detail that will show how much of the pad is below grade and how much is above. Generally the pad is 2 to 4 inches above grade and 18 to 24 inches below grade. This will depend upon your soil conditions and the Freeze Line in your area. If you have soft sandy soil, the pad will need to be 24" or deeper. If you have very hard rocky soil 18" should be fine. The pad needs to be above grade 2 to 4 inches to prevent water from building up or running under the operator. The pad needs to be finished with a smooth level surface with a slight slope for drainage. After pouring, let the pad cure for at least two days. If the weather is bad, cover the pad in plastic sheeting and allow extra time for it to cure.
Gate Automation 101- 3: Wrapping Up the Basics
Step 1 With the gate and the operator in the open position you are now ready to connect the two together. Check the manual for the proper placement and alignment of the chain bracket onto the end of the gate.
Place the bracket onto your gate and clamp it in place, (DO NOT WELD IT YET). Now run the chain through the idler sprockets and over the drive sprocket on the operator and attach the chain bolt onto the end of the chain. Place the chain bolt end through the gate bracket and screw on the nut and washer. Turn the nut on so the bolt just comes out of the nut. Adjust the bracket so that the chain is level with the ground and lined up parallel with the gate and drive sprockets. Now you can weld the bracket.
Now pull the chain back to the rear of the gate and set the rear bracket in the same manner. Cut the chain to length and attach the end bolt. Push the gate to the close position. Align the bracket and chain to be level and straight as on the front and weld the bracket. Tighten the chain by turning the end bolts and remove the slack as indicated in the manual. Step 2 Check the limit adjustment. Move the gate by hand to the full open and close positions. If necessary adjust the limit nuts so that they are depressing the limit switch in each position.
You are now ready to run your operator.
Cycle the gate back and forth several times. Make small adjustments to the open and close limit settings until you have the gate stopping in the correct place without hitting the stops at either end. Well that's it, you have installed your gate operator !
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