Gate Automation 101- 2: From the Ground up

Step 1

Are you ready to start your installation? The first thing is to "READ THE INSTALLATION MANUAL" that came with your equipment. I know you're excited to get started, but the manual contains a lot of important information.

1. Go over the parts list! It's rare, but occasionally some items may get left out at the factory.
2. Pay close attention to the section on Operator Safety!
3. Go over the installation step by step in the manual! Again it's not complicated, but there is an order to how things get done.

Step 2

Now let's go out to the gate and start laying out the site. You will need to take a few things with you, 1. A tape measure. 2. Something to mark the ground with, chalk or a lumber crayon if the area is paved or a can of marking paint if its dirt or grass. 3. A string or chalk-line if you will be marking out for trenching or loops. We will assume that the gate is already installed.

First, determine the operator pad location. Check your manual; it will have a layout drawing that shows the size and shape of the pad and its placement from fixed reference points on the gate. The drawing will refer to a Right Hand or Left Hand layout. This is determined by standing in the drive way and looking out from the property onto the street. If the gate opens to your right it is a Right Hand layout. If it opens to your left it's a Left Hand layout.

Check the manual to find the reference point indicated on the drawing. Now find that point on your gate. For swing gates it is generally the center of the hinge point of the gate. Your measurements will be taken from this point either along the fence line or along the curb line. For a slide gate it is generally the centerline of the gate and the curb line.

Now mark out the pad as shown in the manual. Keep the sides of the pad square and parallel to the gate. Also check the manual for the location of the electrical conduits that will come up inside the pad. Make sure that you will have about 2 inches of the conduit extending out of the finished concrete. Trim the conduits if necessary, being careful not to damage the insulation on the conductors. If you live in an area that has frequent Lightening Storms you may want to install a Grounding Rod. This is a steel rod with a copper coating that is 8 to 10-ft long. It is driven into the ground through the concrete pad next to the electrical conduit. Using a Grounding Clamp, you connect a minimum #12 AWG bare copper wire to the rod and to the base of the operator frame or to a grounding bushing on the conduits.

If the pad is located on an existing concrete slab you can install the operator in the area marked out, without building a new pad. If not, then it will be necessary to dig and pour a new concrete pad.

Again check the manual, there will be a pad detail that will show how much of the pad is below grade and how much is above. Generally the pad is 2 to 4 inches above grade and 18 to 24 inches below grade. This will depend upon your soil conditions and the Freeze Line in your area. If you have soft sandy soil, the pad will need to be 24" or deeper. If you have very hard rocky soil 18" should be fine. The pad needs to be above grade 2 to 4 inches to prevent water from building up or running under the operator. The pad needs to be finished with a smooth level surface with a slight slope for drainage. After pouring, let the pad cure for at least two days. If the weather is bad, cover the pad in plastic sheeting and allow extra time for it to cure.